Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Men's combined

The men's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines (speed, bouldering, lead). It was held from August 3 to August 5, 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo.^[1] A total of 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.

Men's combined at the Games of the XXXII Olympiad
Olympic sport climbing
Venue	Aomi Urban Sports Park, Tokyo
Dates	3 August 2021 (qualification) 5 August 2021 (final)
Competitors	20 from 15 nations
Winning Score	28
Medalists
Alberto Ginés López  Spain Nathaniel Coleman  United States Jakob Schubert  Austria
2024 →

During the qualifying round, Bassa Mawem of France suffered an injury to his lower bicep tendon in his left arm and was forced to withdraw from the final.^[2]

Qualification

Main article: Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification

Competition format

In the qualification round each of the twenty competitors competed in speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. The scores were multiplied and the 8 competitors with the lowest total scores proceeded to the finals.^[3]

In speed climbing, climbers raced against each others in pairs on a standardized wall of 15m in height. In the qualification round, climbers had two runs on two different lanes; their best times were recorded and used for seeding placement in the Final rounds. In the final round, climbers raced head-to-head with the fastest to the top winning.

In bouldering, climbers needed to top boulder problems set on 4.5m-high wall within a certain amount of time. In the qualification round, climbers were faced with 4 boulder problems and given 5 minutes on each problem to top them. The final round had 3 boulder problems to top within a 4 minutes time limit.

In lead climbing, climbers were given a route set on 15m-high wall to top within 6 minutes. If there was a tie, the climber with the fastest elapsed time won.

Route-setting

Speed climbing wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, 5 degrees overhanging. Bouldering and lead climbing have route-setting teams.

The bouldering route-setters were Percy Bishton (chief) from the United Kingdom, Manuel Hassler from Switzerland, Romain Cabessut from France and Garrett Gregor from the United States.^[4][5]

The lead route-setters were Adam Pustelnik (chief) from Poland, Jan Zbranek from Czech Republic, Hiroshi Okano and Akito Matsushima from Japan.^[6]

Records

Prior to this competition, the existing world and Olympic records were as follows.

Speed records
World record	Veddriq Leonardo (INA)	5.208	Salt Lake City, United States	28 May 2021
Olympic record	Not established	–	–	–

The following records were established during the competition:

Date	Round	Climber	Nation	Time	Record
August 3	Speed Qualification	Bassa Mawem	France	5.45[7]	OR

Schedule

All times are Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)

Date[8]	Time	Round
Tuesday, 3 August 2021	17:00	Speed Qualification
	18:00	Bouldering Qualification
	21:10	Lead Qualification
Thursday, 5 August 2021	17:30	Speed Final
	18:30	Bouldering Final
	21:10	Lead Final

Results

Qualification

The top 8 climbers of 20 advanced to the Finals.

Rank	Climber	Nation	Speed[9]			Bouldering[10]						Lead[11]			Total [12]	Notes
			A	B	CP	1	2	3	4	Results	CP	HR	TFT	CP
1	Mickaël Mawem	France	5.95	7.75	3	T2z2	T1z1	T1z1	z1	3T4z 4 5	1	28+	2:24	11	33.00	Q
2	Tomoa Narasaki	Japan	DNS	5.94	2	T2z1	T4z4	z1	z1	2T4z 6 7	2	26+	2:11	14	56.00	Q
3	Colin Duffy	United States	6.23	6.85	6	T10z6	–	T7z6	–	2T2z 17 12	5	42+	4:44	2	60.00	Q
4	Jakob Schubert	Austria	6.70	6.94	12	z9	–	z3	T2z1	1T3z 2 13	7	42+	4:02	1	84.00	Q
5	Adam Ondra	Czech Republic	7.46	8.16	18	T4z4	–	z4	T3z3	2T3z 7 11	3	39+		4	216.00	Q
6	Alberto Ginés López	Spain	6.48	6.32	7	–	–	T12z4	–	1T1z 12 4	14	41+		3	294.00	Q
7	Bassa Mawem	France	5.45 OR	5.67	1	z4	–	–	–	0T1z 0 4	18	7		20	360.00	Q
8	Nathaniel Coleman	United States	6.51	6.52	10	z1	–	T4z3	z2	1T3z 4 6	11	39		5	550.00	Q
9	Alexander Megos	Germany	9.89	7.47	19	T2z1	z6	z7	z1	1T4z 2 15	6	36+		6	684.00
10	Chon Jong-won	South Korea	6.21	Fall	5	z4	–	T3z3	z3	1T3z 3 10	10	26+	2:34	16	800.00
11	Rishat Khaibullin	Kazakhstan	6.90	6.19	4	–	–	z3	–	0T1z 0 3	17	28+	3:09	13	884.00
12	Jan Hojer	Germany	6.63	Fall	11	z2	–	T3z3	z3	1T3z 3 8	9	29+		9	891.00
13	Aleksey Rubtsov	ROC	8.09	7.23	16	T6z3	–	–	T1z1	2T2z 7 4	4	26+	2:29	15	960.00
14	Pan Yufei	China	8.63	7.59	20	T2z2	–	z12	z1	1T3z 2 15	8	36		7	1120.00
15	Michael Piccolruaz	Italy	6.33	6.46	8	T5z5	–	z2	–	1T2z 5 7	13	28+	2:33	12	1248.00
16	Christopher Cosser	South Africa	6.48	7.55	9	z7	–	z8	–	0T2z 0 15	16	29		10	1440.00
17	Sean McColl	Canada	9.18	6.93	14	z2	–	z1	–	0T2z 0 3	15	35+		8	1680.00
18	Kai Harada	Japan	Fall	7.08	15	T4z1	–	z7	–	1T2z 4 8	12	25+		17	3060.00
19	Ludovico Fossali	Italy	6.71	7.39	13	–	–	–	–	0T0z 0 0	19.5	25	2:48	18	4563.00
20	Tom O'Halloran	Australia	7.34	12.20	17	–	–	–	–	0T0z 0 0	19.5	25	3:58	19	6298.50

Final

Rank	Climber	Nation	Speed[13][14]							Bouldering[15]					Lead[16]		Total [17]
			Quarterfinals		Semifinals		Finals		CP	1	2	3	Results	CP	HR	CP
			R	T	R	T	R	T
	Alberto Ginés López	Spain	2	7.44	7	6.56	12	6.42	1	z1	z7	z1	0T3z 0 9	7	38+	4	28
	Nathaniel Coleman	United States	4	6.45	6	6.21	10	Fall	6	T1z1	T3z2	z1	2T3z 4 4	1	34+	5	30
	Jakob Schubert	Austria	3	9.18	6	6.76	9	W	7	T1z1	z5	z1	1T3z 1 7	5	Top	1	35
4	Tomoa Narasaki	Japan	3	6.11	8	6.02	12	7.82	2	T1z1	z3	z1	1T3z 1 5	3	33+	6	36
5	Mickaël Mawem	France	4	6.36	8	7.05	11	6.47	3	T1z1	z1	z1	1T3z 1 3	2	23+	7	42
6	Adam Ondra	Czech Republic	1	W	7	7.03	11	6.86	4	T2z1	–	z1	1T2z 2 2	6	42+	2	48
7	Colin Duffy	United States	2	FS	5	W	10	6.35	5	T1z1	z3	z1	1T3z 1 5	4	40	3	60
8	Bassa Mawem*	France	1	DNS	5	DNS	9	DNS	8	–	–	–	DNS	8	DNS	8	512

* Injured and could not compete.^[2]