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Dani Arnold
Swiss extreme mountaineer (born 1984) From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Dani Arnold (born 22 February 1984)[1] is a Swiss extreme mountaineer.
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Life and career
Arnold grew up in the Canton of Uri and developed a passion for mountaineering at an early age. He first completed training as a mechanical engineer and then as a mountain guide. He quickly specialized in solo climbing and extremely fast ascents of major walls. In addition to his solo projects, he also works as a professional alpinist for various sponsors and gives lectures about his expeditions.
Dani Arnold is a mountain guide, married, father of a daughter, and lives in Bürglen.[2]
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Speed records on the North Faces of the Alps
Dani Arnold holds or has held several speed records on the six great north faces of the Alps:
- Eiger North Face (2011) – New record with 2 hours 28 minutes via the Heckmair route, breaking Ueli Steck's best time.[3][4]
- Matterhorn North Face (2015) – Fastest ascent via the Schmid route in 1 hour 46 minutes.[5][6]
- Grandes Jorasses (2018) – New speed record via the Walker Spur route in 2 hours 4 minutes.[7][8][9]
- Cima Grande di Lavaredo (2019) – New record for the "Comici-Dimai" route with 46 minutes 30 seconds.[10][11]
- Piz Badile (2020) – Solo ascent of the north face via the classic Cassin route in 52 minutes.[12][13]
- Petit Dru (2021) – Fastest ascent of the north face via the classic route in 1 hour 43 minutes.[14][15]
This means he holds records on five of the six great north faces of the Alps.
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Other notable climbs in the Alps
- The Hurting (XI, 11) (2012) – Mixed route on Ben Nevis with high "ground fall" potential.[16]
- Crack Baby Speed Record (2014) – Crack Baby 360m WI6 in 27 min 13 sec.
- First repeat of "Anubis" (XII, 12) in Scotland (2016) – First repeat of the mixed route "Anubis" on Ben Nevis, then the hardest mixed route in the UK.[17]
- Free solo ascent of Beta Block Super WI7 in 1h 03min (2017) – First and only free solo ascent of the ice route Beta Block Super on Breitwangfluh.[18]
- Ritter der Kokosnuss M12 (2017) – Mixed climbing of the "Ritter der Kokosnuss" M12 route on Breitwangfluh.[19]
- First ascent "Schweizernase" on the Matterhorn North Face (2017)[20]
- First ascent Uristier (WI6+/M8) Schöllenen (2019)[21]
- Salbitschijen Solo Speed Record (2023) – New record with 9 hours, 36 minutes, and 55 seconds for West, South, and East ridges.[22]
Expeditions and First ascents
Besides his records in the Alps, Dani Arnold has undertaken numerous expeditions and first ascents. Notable achievements include:
- Patagonia (2010) – First winter ascent of Torre Egger.[23]
- Patagonia (2013) – Cerro Torre in winter – Successful winter ascent.[24]
- Alaska (2016) – First ascent of "Bird of Prey" in the Mooses Tooth Towers.[25]
- Canada (2019) – Power Shrimps Helmcken Falls – First ascent of the extreme ice route at the 140m high Helmcken Falls.[26][27]
- Pakistan (2019) – Broad Peak 8051m – Expedition to the 8051m high Broad Peak.[28]
- Russia (2020) – Expedition to Lake Baikal in winter – 10 first ascents between WI5 and M8 over the frozen Lake Baikal.[29]
- Iceland (2022) – Ice expedition – Ice and mixed climbing in Iceland.[30]
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Awards
- Paul-Preuss-Award 2024[31]
Documentaries
Publications
- Why All This? Records & Reflections by Extreme Alpinist Dani Arnold. 2018.
- 9:39 North – Solo through the Great North Faces of the Alps. (in German) Uli Auffermann & Dani Arnold 2022.
- HOW not WHAT – Reflections by Dani Arnold 2023.[35]
- Anti Gravity – Thomas Monsorno & Dani Arnold 2024.
His achievements have also been extensively covered in magazines like Alpin, Bergsteiger, and National Geographic.
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Lectures
Lectures are an essential part of Dani Arnold's work as a professional alpinist. Notable lectures include:
External links
References
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