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List of Australian wine grape varieties

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

List of Australian wine grape varieties
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Australia has over 160 grape varieties distributed on 146,244 hectares (ha) across all six states,[1] South Australia, New South Wales, Victoria, Western Australia, Tasmania and Queensland (see Australian wine). These activities are concentrated largely in the southern part of the continent where the terroir - that is, soil types, local climate, availability of irrigation and so on - is suited to viticulture.[2]

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A selection of Australian varietals on sale in Hong Kong

Together, the three sectors of the industry, grape growing, winemaking and wine tourism, play a major role in Australia's economy. In the 2018-2019 financial year, they contributed AU$45.5 billion to the national income.[3] In addition, many other businesses benefit from the services they provide to the wine industry.[nb 1]

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Wine grape varieties - overview

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James Busby (1802-1871), a viticulturist who is often called the "father" of Australian winemaking. Wash drawing portrait (1903) by James Ingram McDonald (1865-1935). Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand.

As of 2018,[5] the ten most widely planted varieties were:

Wine Australia's "Vintage Report 2020"[16] said the largest crush was Shiraz[6] ("376,000 tonnes, accounting for 25 per cent of the total crush") and the second-largest was Chardonnay[8] ("285,000 tonnes").

While the grape varieties listed above have continued to be the backbone of the wine industry over time, growers have discovered less well-known and hardier varieties, especially from Spain, Portugal and Italy, which suit Australia's hot, dry conditions well. Now there are almost 160 other varieties in Australia's vineyards.

Some varieties, including those often called "rare varieties",[17] are planted only in small quantities and are being used by winemakers for specialised products.[nb 2] Other varieties, including many already widely used overseas, are experiencing an ever-increasing demand in the Australian industry either for use in wines carrying their names on the labels or in the blending process.[20] These include Arneis,[21][22]Barbera,[23][24] Durif,[25][26] Fiano,[27][28] Gamay Noir,[29] Grüner Veltliner,[30][31] Lagrein,[32][33] Nebbiolo,[34][35] Sangiovese,[36][37] Saperavi,[38][39] Tannat,[40][41] Tempranillo,[42][43] Vermentino[44][45] and so on, all of which are dealt with below.

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Government legislation and operation structures

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The wine industry operates under the Wine Australia Act 2013[46] and the Wine Australia Regulations 2018.[47] They define the relationship between the Australian Government and the industry as a whole, including the grape growers, winemakers and various representative bodies, as exercised through the relevant Minister, set out the standards by which the industry must operate and penalties that will apply if these are not met, and establish two federal governing bodies, Wine Australia (WA) and the Geographical Indications Committee (GIC).

Wine Australia

WA describes its function as supporting "a competitive wine sector by investing in research, development and extension (RD&E), growing domestic and international markets, protecting the reputation of Australian wine and administering the Export and Regional Wine Support Package.[48]

The Wine Australia Act 2013 makes WA responsible for the enforcement of the rules and regulations regarding the labelling of wine. WA described these rules and regulations as "complex";[49] unsurprising because, apart from those set out in this Act, additional labelling requirements arise from the Australia New Zealand Food Standards Code under the Legislation Act 2003,[50] the National Measurement Act 1960,[51] and the Competition and Consumer Act 2010.[52] Everything that appears on the label except the illustration is governed by legislation from one or more of these sources.

WA assists the industry by publishing and distributing guides that explain how the legislation should be interpreted.[53] Specific to the information provided on the tables below in the columns headed "Grape" and "Location - growers and makers", the regulations governing the description of the grape variety and the region in which the grapes were grown are spelt out on WA's website.[49]

Geographical Indications Committee

GIC's primary role, as WA explains, is to "consider applications for the registration and omission of new Australian and foreign GIs (ie Geographical indications) having regard to the criteria set out in the Act, and in accordance with the administrative processes prescribed under the Act and the accompanying regulations."[54]

Zones, regions and sub-regions

Australia has 27 wine zones[55] within which there are 65 regions.[56] Some contain smaller sub-regions of which there are 14. Each zone, region and subregion is located within a particular state, has a defined geographical boundary and has gained registration through the GIC according to the Wine Australia Act 2013.[46] The operation of the GIC, the processes and criteria by which it determines whether a zone may or may not be registered, and other matters are laid out in "Division 4 – Australian geographical indications" of this Act.

After gaining registration through GIC, a zone, region or subregion gains a GI.[nb 3] This means that winemakers within the relevant zones, regions or sub-regions are allowed to label their products in specifically defined ways.[59] This system is designed to protect consumers and investors against false claims and there are defined legal penalties for those who fail to follow the directives.

Some vineyards and wineries are operating in areas not qualified to be granted GI registration because there are too few similar businesses nearby. As has already happened elsewhere, with the ongoing growth of the wine industry and the establishment of new vineyards, some areas may eventually qualify for GI status.

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Use of road transport

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Some winemakers make the bulk of their wine from grapes grown in their own vineyards. But many winemakers rely on other winegrowers to supply grape juice for their use, and not all winegrowers are winemakers as well. This means some winegrowers sell part or all of their output to others, and for an industry spread across all six states on a large continent, road transport plays a major role in moving stock from one place to another.

Reports on the actual volume of grapes and wine being transported each year are hard to find. In trying to calculate this by comparing the volume of grapes grown per region with the volume of where they were processed by region, Chris Quirk wrote of bulk transportation:

"This is difficult to track but it could be in the order of half a million litres a week. It is therefore difficult to accurately compare the significance of one wine region over another. Modern technology has clouded the issue."[nb 4]

Robinson commented on this with some irony:

"The importance of trucking should not be underestimated. The typical large winery is probably based in South Australia, often in the Barossa, but will buy in grapes from as far afield as Coonawarra, the irrigated interior and possibly even the Hunter Valley in New South Wales. (Conversely, it has been a source of persistent irritation to South Australians that they have long provided so much fruit to bolster the reputations of wineries based in New South Wales.)"[61]

The problem in devising the Lists below from available sources was in determining whether wine regions showing in relation to each variety related to where it was grown or where it was used in producing an end-product. As a result, the column headed "Location - growers and makers" includes both.

Identifying a variety - the problem with homonyms and synonyms

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Wine grape varieties are usually known by what is called the "prime name", and it is under this name they tend to be listed in official and academic documents such as the Vitis International Variety Catalogue (VIVC)[62] and Kym Anderson et al.'s Which Winegrape is Grown Where?: A Global Empirical Picture.[63] In addition, varieties usually have alternative names known as homonyms and synonyms which have been applied for a wide range of reasons.[64]

Sometimes in a particular country, a variety may have a prime name which is different from its prime name in the international context. For example, the variety Tempranillo[42] was given this name in its country of origin, Spain, and tends to be known internationally by this same name. But in Spain alone it has 45 other synonyms, while in Portugal it is listed officially as Aragonez but it has ten other synonyms which vary from region to region, and internationally it has over 60 synonyms. Compared with other varieties, this is a relatively small number. There are, for example, some varieties which have more than 200 or 300 homonyms or synonyms: over 250 for Chasselas Blanc,[65] about 300 for Pinot Noir,[11] and close to 350 for Muscat à Petits Grains Blancs.[66]

Often homonyms or synonyms of a particular variety are a direct translation from one language or dialect to another. Pinot Blanc,[67] for example, originated from France and therefore its prime name is in French, but in Italian it is called Pinot Bianco (bianco = white) and Pinot Bijeli (bijeli = white) in Croatian and languages or dialects related to Serbo-Croatian.

Sometimes, when a variety originated from a particular place or has been grown there for a long time, it can be given a local name that reflects that association. Arinto,[68] for example, has among its synonyms Arinto d'Anadia, Arinto de Bucelas, Arinto do Dão and Arinto do Douro as well as Asal Espanhol, Pé de Perdiz Branco and Terrantez de Terceira.

Further confusion has arisen when a particular homonym or synonym has been given to more than one variety. Espadeiro,[69] for example, is the prime name in Portugal for a variety; but as Wein-Plus warns, "It must not be confused with Camaraou Noir,[70] Manseng Noir[71] (both from France), Padeiro,[72] Trincadeira Preta[73] or Vinhão[74] (all five having the synonym Espadeiro), despite the fact that they may share synonyms or have morphological similarities."[75]

Probably the greatest confusion of identity has come about through misidentification,[nb 5] misnaming,[nb 6] or mislabelling.[nb 7] Some growers, for example, have found themselves with vines for which they have no formal identification and have based their decision on observation or even guesswork; so if the vine, grape or seasonal behaviour is similar to that of another variety, it is not surprising that the variety is given an incorrect name. The occurrence of mislabelling was also frequent in the past, especially when the gathering and exchanging of cuttings were carried out informally and without some form of control. New legislation and strict administration have reduced but not eliminated this risk.

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Lists of wine grape varieties

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For an explanation of techniques used for the investigation of a variety's genetic structure and the determination of its pedigree, see Sean Myles, Adam R Boyko, et al. "Genetic structure and domestication history of the grape."[81]

Dark skin varieties

Abbreviations

  • Colour of Berry Skin– N (noir – black), Rg (rouge – red), Rs (rose – pale red or pink), Gr (gris – grey or greyish-blue)
  • FPS– Foundation Plant Service Grape Registry[82]
  • ha- hectare, a measurement of land area
  • VIVC– Vitis International Variety Catalogue
  • WA – Wine Australia
  • WPG – Wein.Plus Glossary
More information Grape, Color of Berry Skin ...

Pale skin varieties

Abbreviations

  • Colour of Berry Skin– B (blanc – white or yellow); Gr (grigio or gris – blue/grey to pale pink)
  • FPS– Foundation Plant Service Grape Registry[82]
  • ha- hectare, a measurement of land area
  • VIVC– Vitis International Variety Catalogue
  • WA – Wine Australia
  • WPG – Wein.Plus Glossary
More information Grape, Color of Berry Skin ...
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Footnotes

  1. A 1995 report to the Australian government summarised this:
    "Some cater exclusively for grapegrowers or wineries (eg harvesting contractors, bottling companies and fermentation equipment suppliers), but many also supply other industries in the region (although the wine industry may be their major customer). Included in this latter category are: transport companies; metal fabricators (eg manufacturers of stainless steel tanks); manufacturers of viticultural machinery; label manufacturers; suppliers of fertilisers and chemicals; consultants specialising in viticulture services; accounting and legal firms; and suppliers of packaging materials."[4]
  2. Darby Higgs of VinoDiversity provides a detailed list of Australia's rare varieties.[18] He has also written a book, Vinodiversity - the Book: New grape varieties and wines in Australia, in which he describes all the varieties currently being used commercially in this country's wine production, lists all the Zones, Regions and Subregions, discusses the wineries using alternative varieties, and provides an index with locations and contact details for all the wineries operating at the time the book was being written.[19]
  3. [57] GI is defined as "a word or expression used in the description and presentation of a wine to indicate the country, region or locality in which it originated or to suggest that a particular quality, reputation or characteristic of the wine is attributable to the wine having originated in the country, region or locality indicated by the word or expression."[58]
  4. Considering the age of this book and the fact that Australia's volume of output has greatly increased since then, it could be safely estimated that the volume transported by road would now be significantly more than half a million litres.[60]
  5. This report from Wine Australia[76] shows how Gros Manseng[77] was misidentified there as Petit Manseng.[78]
  6. In this report, the authors explain why vines growing in different parts of Georgia were being identified as the same variety and the process by which they were finally found to be distinctly different varieties.[79]
  7. Mislabelling can occur for many reasons including the grower's or winemaker's confusion about the identity of the grapes used in a wine's production. There are also cases where this has been carried out deliberately and has led to criminal charges being laid against the perpetrators. This news report focuses on such an event in France.[80]
  8. According to various sources, Aubun cuttings were brought from France to Australia in 1832 by James Busby and planted in his Hunter Valley vineyards.[98][99][100] According to VIVC's records, an accession is said to be in the hands of CSIRO at its Merbein site. Following the consolidation of its wine research program in Adelaide,[101] the assumption is that this accession has been transferred there.
  9. The variety is referred to by Vinodiversity as "Cabernet Sanzey"[126] The reference is actually to Cabernet Franc[123] grown by Antoine Sanzay (correct spelling) in his vineyard in the region of Saumur-Champigny, Loire Valley, France.[127]
  10. For a description of the origin and trial test performance of the Shiraz clone 'Caracosa' see John Whiting's Selection of Grapevine Rootstocks and Clones for Greater Victoria.[133]
  11. This grape was created in 1949 by Harold Olmo (1909-2006), former Professor of Viticulture at the University of California (although Olmo grapes says 1972, and Jancis Robinson described it as a "1936 California crossing."[140])
  12. WPG warns that Abrusco should not be confused with Colorino del Valdarno (Raverusto)[157] or Muscat Rouge de Madère[158] despite their shared synonyms and morphological similarities.[159]
  13. WPG warns that Abrusco should not be confused with Corbina,[166] Corva (or Crova)[167] and Corvinone Veronese[168] despite their shared synonyms and morphological similarities.[169]
  14. In Robinson's essay on the worldwide use of this variety, she says, "And then there is the remarkable Sorrenberg[193] of Beechworth in north-east Victoria, Australia which make one of the most exciting Gamays I have ever tasted."[194]
  15. VIVC[112] gives the confirmed parentage as Aestivalis x Vitis vinifera subsp. Vinifera Linné[200] but does not provide any specific information about Aestivalis. WPG[201] says, "It is probably a natural cross between the American species Vitis aestivalis[202] and Vitis cinerea,[203] and possibly an unknown European Vitis vinifera.[204]" As WPG goes on to say, the full botanical name of Vitis aestivalis is "Vitis aestivalis Michx." (which means it could be the equivalent of VIVC's listings for Vitis aestivalis Michaux var. Aestivalis[205] or V. a. M. var. Bicolor whose synonym is Northern Aestivalis.[206]) Research into the parentage of Jacquez is summarised by Jerónimo Rodrigues in a paper entitled "A view into the grapevine history of Jacquez and its connection to the Madeira Islands – Vitis vinifera cv. Cabernet franc[123] is a possible parent of Jacquez."[207] While he concludes by expressing doubt that the full story may never be fully known (p. 8), analyses of the varieties genotype makeup have led him to think that
    "Jacquez contains only a 25% contribution from Vitis aestivalis, while the remainder (75%) is either totally Vitis vinifera or Vitis vinifera plus a contribution from another source, for example, V. vinifera ssp. sylvestris or the much-touted Vitis cinerea." (p. 6.)
    The source of V. vinifera - Cabernet Franc, as some American literature seems to be saying - he regards as a moot point, much affected by establishing what form of V. vinifera was introduced into the North American continent early enough to have crossed with V. aestivalis leading to the appearance of Jacquez in Georgia or South Carolina by the early- to mid-18th century (p. 6), and in time for its transmission to Madeira and other parts of Europe in the late 18th century. (p. 7)
  16. With VIVC's only listing under Mammolo being M. Peccioli, no indication of parentage is given. WPG[218] gives the parentage as Boggione Rosso[219] x Uva delle Vecchie[220]
  17. This parentage is provided by WPG.[225] VIVC does not provide any information about parentage.
  18. This sub-regions website lists the grape as "Muscat à Petits Grains Rosa",[245] which probably means the variety is Muscat à Petits Grains Rose.
  19. For many years the names Sousão (Souzão) and Vinhão have been used as synonyms for what was taken to be a single grape variety. However, a recent research program in Portugal using microsatellite technology and RAPD (Random Amplified Polymorphic DNA) and ISSR (Inter Simple Sequence Repeat) molecular techniques came to the following conclusion:
    "Results highlight the genetic proximity between Sousão and Vinhão accessions. Sousão is the prime name of a cultivar grown especially in ‘Vinhos Verdes’ Region whose cultivar designation was modified to Sezão in the last review of the ‘Portuguese List of Varieties fit for Wine Production’. Vinhão has been reported as the synonym of the Spanish cultivar Sousón. However, a focus of confusion exists in Douro Region, where, frequently, the name Sousão it given to the cultivar Vinhão. Though, the observed separated RAPD clusters for Sousão and Vinhão groups are correct, nevertheless, the fact that these accessions have a miscellany of names between the two RAPD clusters and that they cluster together in the ISSR marker analysis, suggest that Sousão and Vinhão accessions are genetically close."[312]
  20. Robinson et al say under "Tribidrag"" in Wine Grapes: A complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins and flavours.[98] "Tribidrag is the oldest name for this variety", and therefore "According to the rule of anteriority, whereby the oldest name takes precedence, Tribidrag is adopted here as the prime name for this variety.” Searches on Wikipedia under the variety names Primitivo and Tribidrag direct to Zinfandel where it is pointed out in the first paragraph that DNA analysis has now identified these three varieties along with Crljenak Kaštelanski[327] as being identical. There has been more than a century of debate about this, and a recent article which maps these changing opinions about the origin and identity of Zinfandel says that due to DNA profiling conducted by US geneticist Carole Meredith from the University of Chicago with oenologists Ivan Pejić[328] and Edi Maletić[329] both from the University of Zagreb, it has been shown that:
    "Crljenak Kaštelanski, Primitivo and Zinfandel grapes were a perfect DNA match, and Plavac Mali (Once said to be identical with Zinfandel) turned out to be what Dr. Meredith called ”a son of Zinfandel,” a cross between Crljenak and the Dobričić[330] grape," and that the oldest name in use was Crljenak Kaštelanski not Tribidrag.[331]
    It seems likely that this was the DNA analysis to which Zinfandel referred. While there has been an attempt internationally to standardise this name (and as already mentioned, Robinson et al. have favoured Tribidrag), there has been no agreement because US winemakers have preferred to maintain their long-time use of Zinfandel and US labelling laws[332] prevent them from using the alternatives, those in Italy prefer Primitivo, and Australian winemakers are tending to use both Zinfandel and Primitivo with a preference for the former.[333] Ironically, the desire of Italian winemakers to use the name Zinfandel instead of Primitivo for their locally-made wines led to a legal dispute which has not yet reached its conclusion. The point being made by US winemakers is that the name Zinfandel originated in the US, specifically in California, and that it is rightfully "owned" by that country. In addition, their stated fear is that, if Italy's were able to market wines as Zinfandel in Europe, this would undermine the US's already massively successful exporting program.[334]
  21. As well its use as a synonym for Trousseau Noir, there is also a variety of this name.[338]
  22. Most often recognised for its contribution to the dried fruit industry, this variety's role as a wine grape is largely ignored. Yet according to a report from the Australian Bureau of Statistics for the period 1988-89, where it was listed under its name Waltham Cross, of a total output of 5,482 tonnes, 1,200 tonnes were sold as table grapes, 2,277 tonnes were used by the dried fruit industry, and 2,366 tonnes were directed to winemaking.[346]
  23. IIt is worth noting that in 2009 DNA profiling found that vines which had been planted in Australia as Albariño were actually Savagnin.[349]
  24. Kerridge and Antcliff reported that there were about 100 ha of Chasselas in Australia with half of them in Victoria and the remainder in New South Wales and Western Australia. The only specific location they mentioned was Merbein in the Murray Darling Region (presumably meaning the former CSIRO Research Station).[378] Having referred to Kerridge and Antcliff, Halliday added in the same sentence that "the Grampians was home to most."[379] But as he concluded, "It [ie Chasselas] now has a more ephemeral presence."
  25. Grown by Western Australian winemakers Dorham Mann and Doris Elsie Mann.[393]
  26. Not to be confused with the variety called Greco (to which it is not related) as well as several other varieties whose synonyms are Greco.[404][405]
  27. Although this variety is defined as a white grape, in Australia it is being used to produce red and pink blends.[407]
  28. Not to be confused with Madeleine Angevine Oberlin, an offspring of Madeleine Angevine,[416] nor the UK variety Madeleine x Angevine 7672 or Madeleine Angevine 7627 which, misleadingly, is often referred to in the UK as Madeleine Angevine.[417]
  29. Melon de Bourgogne is used in making Muscadet. However, US federal law forbids use of the term Muscadet in that country and the wine is usually sold under the name Melon de Bourgogne in full or as Melon.
  30. This variety was created by Dr Hermann Müller (1850-1927), a Swiss botanist, plant physiologist, oenologist and grape breeder.
  31. Not to be confused with Pedro Giménez, an Argentinian white variety. Unfortunately, Pedro Giménez is one of the synonyms for this variety.[444]
  32. Although WPG describes this variety as "a colour mutation of Pinot gris (or vice versa) from which Pinot Noir has mutated",[454] Robinson et al. say:
    “Until recently, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir Précoce and Pinot Teinturier, to cite the most common mutations, were considered to be distinct varieties belonging to a so-called ‘Pinot family’. However, black, grey and white berries can sometimes be observed on the same Pinot vine, or even individual striped berries, and DNA profiling has now revealed that all the Pinot types mentioned above have the same genetic fingerprint when analysed at the standard set of eight DNA markers. As a consequence, it is misleading to talk about a ‘Pinot family’ because all these forms are mutations that appeared within a single initial variety, Pinot.”[455]
  33. WPG points out, "The previously used Prosecco grape variety name is now protected by EU law only as a designation of origin and no longer as a cultivar name. The Prosecco grape variety (Prosecco Tondo) is now called Glera, and the Prosecco Lungo grape is now called Glera Lunga."[462] In 2013, the European Union tried to prevent Australia from using the word on its own products. Wine Australia opposed this, saying that Prosecco was the name of a variety rather than a region from which it originated. By 2019 an agreement between EU and Australia had not yet been reached, and the debate will probably continue for some time.[463][464] Of course, restrictions on the use of the word Prosecco is only one of many current debates, and as a news report revealed, "Trade Minister Simon Birmingham has released a list with 172 foods and 236 spirits the European Union (EU) wants protected in return for a free trade agreement (FTA) with Australia."[465]
  34. WPG refers this variety across to Traminer where it is pointed out that Savagnin Blanc (as the French prefer to call it, or Weißer Traminer according to German usage), Gewütztraminer and Savagnin Rose have almost identical DNA profiles, but are otherwise different from each other in "berry color, aroma, leaf shape and grape size, as well as regarding vigor, yield and susceptibility to disease." Therefore, they are probably bud sports or mutations from the same variety (Gewütztraminer having evolved from Savagnin Rose, which in turn came from Savagnin Blanc, leaving the last as the oldest of the three and having arisen from a much more ancient parentage), the reason why they are often listed together as one variety under Traminer.[473][474][475] Robinson et al. explain this further in the chapter entitled "Savagnin":
    “Today Savagnin shows a considerable level of clonal diversity, seen in berry colour, aroma, leaf shape, cluster size and so on. Several of these forms have often been mistakenly considered to be distinct varieties, eg Gewürztraminer in Alsace and Germany; Heida or Païen in Switzerland; Traminer or Traminer Weisser in Germany; Traminer Aromatico in Trentino-Alto Adige in Italy. Yet DNA profiling has shown that they all have the same genetic fingerprint, with the exception of some minor clonal genetic differences, and that they all correspond to the same variety (Regner et al. 2000a; Imazio et al. 2002). It is consequently misleading to talk about a ‘Savagnin family’ or a ‘Traminer family’ because this suggests family ties such as parent–offspring, uncle–nephew, cousins.
    “For that reason, the most significant clonal mutations of this variety will be discussed as subsections within this Savagnin entry: the white-yellow-berried Savagnin Blanc, the pink-berried Savagnin Rose and the pink-berried, aromatic Gewürztraminer, in chronological order of appearance in the literature. Even though the historical references to Traminer are earlier than those to Savagnin, the latter is used here as the prime name because it is less misleading in terms of the variety’s origin.”[476] In the next chapter entitled "Savagnin Blanc", the introductory remark says, “Full-bodied, firm, ageworthy wines, sometimes called Traminer.”[477]
    Regardless of the shared identity between Savagnin Blanc and Traminer, in this chart the two have been given separate entries as a reflection of the usage of both names in Australia.[478]
  35. Under the heading "Gewurtztraminer
  36. This variety was developed by A J Antcliff[496] at the former CSIRO Research Station, Merbein, Victoria.[497] First released in 1966, two samples were sent to FPS, Tulillah 1 in 1976 and Tulillah II in 1985. A tissue cultured sample of Tulillah (labelled as 01.1 was qualified for inclusion in FPS's Russell Ranch Foundation Vineyard. It was described as "a high-yielding white wine variety".[498]
  37. Higgs comments that Verduzzo has not gained much ground in Australia.[506]
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References

Supplemental references used for charts

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