Nancy Silvestrini

Nancy Noemí Silvestrini (5 April 1972; Mendoza, Argentina - 5 July 2003; Gasherbrum I, Pakistán) was an Argentinian alpinist who was known for her six summits of Aconcagua and for being the first Argentine woman to summit an eight-thousander.

Nancy Silvestrini

Personal information
Full name	Nancy Noemí Silvestrini
Born	(1972-04-05)5 April 1972 Guaymallén Mendoza, Argentina
Died	July 5, 2003(2003-07-05) (aged 31) Gasherbrum I, Pakistan
Climbing career
Major ascents	First Argentine woman to summit an eight-thousander

Biography

Originally trained as a computer systems analyst, she sought refuge in the mountains and began climbing in 1996 after her brother and husband were killed in separate accidents.^[1] She trained at the Valentín Ugarte Guide School and worked for many years as a guide on Cerro Aconcagua (6962 m), the highest mountain in America.^[2]

In 1999, she summited Argentina's Monte Pissis volcano with an all-female expedition.^[1] Later climbed Nevado Sajama and Huayna Potosí in Bolivia, and Tocllaraju in Peru.^[3] On 1 June 2003 she joined an expedition team of Spanish climbers including Eva Zarzuelo, Jorge Egocheaga, José Manuel Buenaga for an attempt on Gasherbrum.^[4]

Final climb

On 5 July 2003, at the age of 31, she summited Gasherbrum I, becoming the first Argentine woman to do so.^[3] As the team descended, a strong storm battered the climbers between the summit and Camp III at 7,300 metres (24,000 ft).^[5] Nancy fell and broke her arm, but was able to recover.^[6] As she got up, high winds tore Nancy and José Manuel Buenaga Villanueva from the mountain, where they fell to their deaths at 6,300 metres (20,700 ft).^[4] Nancy fell into a crevasse on the Pakistani side of the mountain. Buenaga Villanueva was swept off towards the Chinese side.^[1] Buenaga's body was found and buried on the mountain, Nancy's was unable to be recovered.^[7]