Offset figure-eight bend

The offset figure-eight bend is a poor knot that has been implicated in the deaths of several rock climbers.^[1][3][4] The knot may capsize (invert) under load, as shown in the figure, and this can happen repeatedly.^[5] Each inversion reduces the lengths of the tails. Once the tails are used up completely, the knot comes undone.

An offset figure-eight knot inverting itself

Offset figure-eight bend
Names	Offset figure-eight bend, flat figure-eight bend[1], abnormal figure-eight bend[2]

More secure knots for this purpose are the Flemish bend (the "figure eight bend"), (doubled) offset overhand bend, or double fisherman's knot.

See also

• List of knots