Oxford shoe

An Oxford shoe is a type of shoe characterized by shoelace eyelet tabs that are attached under the vamp,^[1] a feature termed "closed lacing".^[2] This contrasts with Derbys, or bluchers, which have shoelace eyelets attached to the top of the vamp.^[3] Originally, Oxfords were plain, formal shoes, made of leather, but they evolved into a range of styles suitable for formal, uniform, or casual wear. On the basis of function and the dictates of fashion, Oxfords are now made from a variety of materials, including calf leather, faux and genuine patent leather, suede, and canvas. They are normally black or brown, and may be plain or patterned (brogue).

Men's cap-toe Oxford shoe by Crockett & Jones

Terminology

The meaning of "Oxford" and "balmoral" may vary geographically. In the United States and Scotland, "Balmoral" is often synonymous with "Oxford".^[4] In the United States, "Oxford" is sometimes used for any more formal lace-up shoe, including the Blucher and Derby. In Britain and other countries, the Balmoral is an Oxford with no seams, apart from the toe cap seam, descending to the welt, a style common on boots. Oxford shoes are also known for their variation or style. The Cap-Toe Oxford is the most well-known, although 'Whole Cut', 'Plain Toe', and a variation of 'Brogue' Oxfords are commonly referred to styles.^[5] Shoes with closed lacing (Oxfords/Balmorals) are considered more formal than those with open lacing (Bluchers/Derbys).^[6] A particular type of oxford shoe is the wholecut oxford, its upper made from a single piece of leather with only a single seam at the back or in the rare exception no seams at all.^[7]

History

The origin of the Oxford shoe is unclear. Two origins have been suggested. First that Oxford shoes originated from students at Oxford University who wore knee-high boots that were trimmed down to create medium-sized boots, given the name Oxoniana Oxfords. A second suggestion is that they were popularised by Prince Albert who resided in Balmoral Castle and so are named after his home.^[8] This shoe style did not appear in North America until the 1800s.^[9] In the United States, Oxfords are called "Bal-type" as opposed to "Blucher-type". In France, Oxfords are known as Richelieu,^[10] or Molière in Belgium and Luxembourg.

Oxfords were derived from the Oxonian, a half-boot with side slits that gained popularity at Oxford University in 1800.^[11] Unlike early shoes, Oxfords were cut smaller than the foot. The side slit evolved into a side lace that eventually moved to the instep, as students rebelled against knee-high and ankle-high boots. The toe cap can either be lined with two narrow rows of stitching, perforated holes along the end cap stitching (quarter-brogue), perforated holes along the end cap stitching and on the toe cap (semi-brogue), or a semi-brogue with the classical wingtip design (full-brogue).^[12]

• 
  Evening Oxford shoes created by Alfred J. Cammeyer in 1891
• 
  Men's quarter brogue oxford shoes
• 
  Men's full brogue (or wingtip) oxford
• 
  Wholecut

See also

• List of shoe styles
• Blucher shoe
• Brogue shoe
• Derby shoe
• Saddle shoe
• "The Short Happy Life of the Brown Oxford"
• Spectator shoe
• Wholecut