Sachi Amma

Sachi Amma (born September 23, 1989) is a Japanese professional rock climber and sport climber. He won the IFSC Climbing World Cup twice, in 2012 and 2013.

Sachi Amma

Personal information
Nationality	Japanese
Born	(1989-09-23) September 23, 1989 (age 35) Tochigi Prefecture, Japan
Occupation	Professional sport climber
Height	172 cm (5 ft 8 in)
Weight	53 kg (117 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber	Lead climbing
Highest grade	Redpoint: 9b (5.15b)
Known for	Winning the World Cup in 2012 and 2013
Medal record Men's sport climbing Representing  Japan World Championships 2014 Gijón Lead World Cup 2009 Combined 2009 Lead 2010 Combined 2011 Lead Winner 2012 Lead 2012 Combined Winner 2013 Lead 2013 Combined
Updated on October 31, 2017

Biography

In 2006 he started competing at the World Cup, in the Lead climbing discipline, and won the Cup twice, in 2012 and 2013. In 2009, 2010 and 2012 he also competed, occasionally, in the Bouldering discipline, with less encouraging results.

He mainly climbs indoor, but he also proved to be one of the strongest rock climbers in the world, by redpointing three routes graded 9a+ (5.15a): Papichulo (Oliana), Pachamama (Oliana), and La Rambla (Siurana).

He has since redpointed one additional 9a+ (5.15a): Realization (Céüse)^[1] and two routes graded 9b (5.15b): Soul Mate (Gozen Rock) and Fight or Flight (Oliana),^[2] the former becoming Japan's hardest sport climb.^[3]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup

[4]	2005	2006	2007	2008	2009	2010	2011	2012	2013	2014	2015
Lead	35	18	12	5	3	5	3	1	1	7	30
Bouldering	-	-	-	-	50	79	-	21	26	-	-
Combined	-	-	-	-	2	3	-	3	3	-	-

Climbing World Championships

[5]	2007	2009	2011	2012	2014
Lead	21	4	10	7	3

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead^[5]

Season	Gold	Silver	Bronze	Total
2008		1	1	2
2009		2	1	3
2010			1	1
2011		4	3	7
2012	2	2	2	6
2013	3	2	1	6
2014	2	1	1	4
Total	7	12	10	29

Rock climbing

Redpointed routes

9b (5.15b):

• Soul Mate – Gozen Rock (JAP) – March 2018 – First ascent. Described as Japan's hardest route and first 9b.^[3]
• Fight or Flight – Oliana (ESP) – February 2015 – First ascent by Chris Sharma.^[2]

9a+ (5.15a):

• Realization – Céüse (FRA) – August 6, 2014 – First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2001^[1]
• La Rambla – Siurana (ESP) – November 29, 2012 – First ascent by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué, 2003^[6]
• Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – December 17, 2011 – First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2009^[7]
• Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – December 24, 2010 – First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2008^[8]

9a (5.14d):

• Era Vella – Margalef (ESP) – December 2, 2012^[9]
• Kinematix – Gorges du Loup (FRA) – August 2009 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2001^[10]

See also

• List of grade milestones in rock climbing
• History of rock climbing
• Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals