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2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships

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2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships
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The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France.[1][2] The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.[3][4]

Quick Facts Venue, Location ...
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Ésforta Arena Hachioji, the event venue
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Medal summary

Medalists

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Medal table

  *   Host nation (Japan)

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Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics

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The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.[3][5]

The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:

More information 2020 Summer Olympic qualification, Men ...

*  Japan, as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Ogata and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could choose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.

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Schedule

All times and dates use Japan Standard Time (UTC+9) [6]

Q Qualifications SF Semi-finals F Finals
B Bouldering L Lead S Speed C Combined
More information August 2019, 11th Sun ...

Bouldering

Women

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Men

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Lead

Women

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Men

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Speed

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Women

Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.[11]

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Final
            
1  Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.472
16  MingWei Ni (CHN) 7.819
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.337
 Patrycja Chudziak (POL) 8.008
8  Patrycja Chudziak (POL) 8.114
9  Elena Remizova (RUS) fall
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.337
 YiLing Song (CHN) fall
4  Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) 8.465
13  Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) 7.789
 Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) 7.605
 YiLing Song (CHN) 7.192
5  YiLing Song (CHN) 7.436
12  Anna Brożek (POL) 7.945
 Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.129
 Di Niu (CHN) 8.363
2  Mariia Krasavina (RUS) 7.454
15  Andrea Rojas (ECU) 8.202
 Mariia Krasavina (RUS) 7.998
 Di Niu (CHN) 7.814
7  Natalia Kałucka (POL) 7.895
10  Di Niu (CHN) 7.871
 Di Niu (CHN) 7.525
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.535
3  Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 8.409 Small final
14  Aurelia Sarisson (FRA) 10.504
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.663  YiLing Song (CHN) 9.76
 Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) 10.188  Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.53
6  Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) 7.747
11  PeiYang Tian (CHN) 8.080

Men

Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.[12]

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Final
            
1  Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) 6.150
16  Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.944
 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.808
 Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) 5.863
8  Sergey Rukin (RUS) fall
9  Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) 6.232
 Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) fall
 Jan Kriz (CZE) 5.986
4  Reza Alipour (IRI) 6.281
13  John Brosler (USA) 9.383
 Reza Alipour (IRI) 7.248
 Jan Kriz (CZE) 6.219
5  Long Cao (CHN) 6.441
12  Jan Kriz (CZE) 6.136
 Jan Kriz (CZE) fall
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) 6.871
2  Vladislav Deulin (RUS) 5.612
15  QiXin Zhong (CHN) 5.580
 QiXin Zhong (CHN) FS
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) WC
7  Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) fall
10  Ludovico Fossali (ITA) 5.908
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA) WC
 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) FS
3  Bassa Mawem (FRA) 7.470 Small final
14  Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) 7.013
 Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) 7.613  Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.83
 Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 7.500  Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 5.93
6  Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 5.940
11  ZhiYong Ou (CHN) 6.072
WC – Wildcard
FS – False start
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Combined

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Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.[6]

In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.[13]

Women

[14]

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Men

[15]

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See also

References

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