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2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships
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The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France.[1][2] The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.[3][4]
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Medal summary
Medalists
Medal table
* Host nation (Japan)
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Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics
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The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.[3][5]
The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:
* 
Japan, as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Ogata and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could choose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.
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Schedule
All times and dates use Japan Standard Time (UTC+9) [6]
| Q | Qualifications | SF | Semi-finals | F | Finals |
| B | Bouldering | L | Lead | S | Speed | C | Combined |
Bouldering
Women
Men
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Lead
Women
Men
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Speed
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Women
Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.[11]
| Round of 16 | Quarter-finals | Semi-finals | Final | ||||||||||||||||
| 1 |  Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
| 7.472 | |||||||||||||||||
| 16 |  MingWei Ni (CHN)
| 7.819 | |||||||||||||||||
| Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
| 7.337 | ||||||||||||||||||
| Patrycja Chudziak (POL)
| 8.008 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 8 | Patrycja Chudziak (POL)
| 8.114 | |||||||||||||||||
| 9 |  Elena Remizova (RUS)
| fall | |||||||||||||||||
| Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
| 7.337 | ||||||||||||||||||
| YiLing Song (CHN)
| fall | ||||||||||||||||||
| 4 | Iuliia Kaplina (RUS)
| 8.465 | |||||||||||||||||
| 13 | Aleksandra Kałucka (POL)
| 7.789 | |||||||||||||||||
| Aleksandra Kałucka (POL)
| 7.605 | ||||||||||||||||||
| YiLing Song (CHN)
| 7.192 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 5 | YiLing Song (CHN)
| 7.436 | |||||||||||||||||
| 12 | Anna Brożek (POL)
| 7.945 | |||||||||||||||||
| Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
| 7.129 | ||||||||||||||||||
| Di Niu (CHN)
| 8.363 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 2 | Mariia Krasavina (RUS)
| 7.454 | |||||||||||||||||
| 15 |  Andrea Rojas (ECU)
| 8.202 | |||||||||||||||||
| Mariia Krasavina (RUS)
| 7.998 | ||||||||||||||||||
| Di Niu (CHN)
| 7.814 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 7 | Natalia Kałucka (POL)
| 7.895 | |||||||||||||||||
| 10 | Di Niu (CHN)
| 7.871 | |||||||||||||||||
| Di Niu (CHN)
| 7.525 | ||||||||||||||||||
 Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
| 7.535 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 3 | Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
| 8.409 | Small final | ||||||||||||||||
| 14 | Aurelia Sarisson (FRA)
| 10.504 | |||||||||||||||||
| Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
| 7.663 | YiLing Song (CHN)
| 9.76 | ||||||||||||||||
| Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS)
| 10.188 | Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
| 7.53 | ||||||||||||||||
| 6 | Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS)
| 7.747 | |||||||||||||||||
| 11 | PeiYang Tian (CHN)
| 8.080 | |||||||||||||||||
Men
Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.[12]
| Round of 16 | Quarter-finals | Semi-finals | Final | ||||||||||||||||
| 1 | Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS)
| 6.150 | |||||||||||||||||
| 16 | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)
| 5.944 | |||||||||||||||||
| Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)
| 5.808 | ||||||||||||||||||
 Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR)
| 5.863 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 8 | Sergey Rukin (RUS)
| fall | |||||||||||||||||
| 9 | Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR)
| 6.232 | |||||||||||||||||
| Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)
| fall | ||||||||||||||||||
 Jan Kriz (CZE)
| 5.986 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 4 |  Reza Alipour (IRI)
| 6.281 | |||||||||||||||||
| 13 |  John Brosler (USA)
| 9.383 | |||||||||||||||||
| Reza Alipour (IRI)
| 7.248 | ||||||||||||||||||
| Jan Kriz (CZE)
| 6.219 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 5 | Long Cao (CHN)
| 6.441 | |||||||||||||||||
| 12 | Jan Kriz (CZE)
| 6.136 | |||||||||||||||||
| Jan Kriz (CZE)
| fall | ||||||||||||||||||
 Ludovico Fossali (ITA)
| 6.871 | ||||||||||||||||||
| 2 | Vladislav Deulin (RUS)
| 5.612 | |||||||||||||||||
| 15 | QiXin Zhong (CHN)
| 5.580 | |||||||||||||||||
| QiXin Zhong (CHN)
| FS | ||||||||||||||||||
| Ludovico Fossali (ITA)
| WC | ||||||||||||||||||
| 7 |  Amir Maimuratov (KAZ)
| fall | |||||||||||||||||
| 10 | Ludovico Fossali (ITA)
| 5.908 | |||||||||||||||||
| Ludovico Fossali (ITA)
| WC | ||||||||||||||||||
| Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)
| FS | ||||||||||||||||||
| 3 | Bassa Mawem (FRA)
| 7.470 | Small final | ||||||||||||||||
| 14 | Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
| 7.013 | |||||||||||||||||
| Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
| 7.613 | Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)
| 5.83 | ||||||||||||||||
| Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)
| 7.500 | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)
| 5.93 | ||||||||||||||||
| 6 | Danyil Boldyrev (UKR)
| 5.940 | |||||||||||||||||
| 11 | ZhiYong Ou (CHN)
| 6.072 | |||||||||||||||||
- WC – Wildcard
- FS – False start
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Combined
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Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.[6]
In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.[13]
Women
Men
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See also
References
External links
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