Miho Nonaka

Japanese rock climber (born 1997) From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Miho Nonaka

Miho Nonaka (野中 生萌, Nonaka Mihō, born May 21, 1997) is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. She is an Olympic silver medalist in sport climbing.

Quick Facts Personal information, Nationality ...
Miho Nonaka
Nonaka at the Bouldering World Cup, Munich, 2015
Personal information
NationalityJapanese
Born (1997-05-21) May 21, 1997 (age 27)
Tokyo, Japan
OccupationProfessional climber
Height163 cm (5 ft 4 in)
Climbing career
Type of climberCompetition climbing
Highest grade
Known for
  • Winner of overall Boulder World Cup title in 2018
  • 2020 Olympic silver medalist
Medal record
Women's competition climbing
Representing  Japan
Olympic Games
2020 TokyoCombined
World Championships
2016 ParisBouldering
World Cup (Overall)
Winner2018Bouldering
2016Bouldering
2022Bouldering
2023Bouldering
2015Bouldering
Asian Championships
2014 LombokBouldering
2015 NingboBouldering
2018 KurayoshiCombined
2024 Tai'anBouldering
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Early life

Nonaka's father and sister introduced her to climbing when she was nine years old.

Climbing career

Summarize
Perspective

In 2013, Nonaka began competing on the international senior circuit at IFSC Climbing World Cups at age 16, initially focusing on competition lead climbing.

In 2014, Nonaka transitioned towards competition bouldering, winning her first World Cup medal with a second-place finish at the Boulder World Cup in Laval and eventually finishing the World Cup season in fifth place in the overall ranking for bouldering.[1]

Thumb
Nonaka at the Bouldering World Cup, Munich, 2015

Nonaka continued to move up the overall rankings for bouldering in the following World Cup seasons, finishing in third place in 2015 and second place in 2016. She won her first World Cup gold medal at the Boulder World Cup in Navi Mumbai in 2016.[2]

In 2018, Nonaka won the overall title in the Boulder World Cup by earning a place on the podium at every World Cup that season, winning one gold medal and six silver medals.[3]

In 2019, Nonaka was deemed by the IFSC to have qualified to compete at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo by finishing in fifth place in the combined event at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships.[4] In December 2020, Nonaka's Olympic berth was confirmed after a dispute between the IFSC and the Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association was resolved in Nonaka's favor.[5][6][7][8]

In preparation to compete in the combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics (postponed to 2021), Nonaka competed at bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing events during the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup season, making finals across all disciplines and winning a bronze medal at the Speed World Cup in Salt Lake City.[9] At the Olympics, Nonaka won a silver medal in the combined event.[10]

Nonaka followed up her Olympic medal with two straight second-place finishes in the overall rankings of the Boulder World Cup in 2022 and 2023.

In 2024, Nonaka placed second in the rankings of the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the Olympic Qualifier Series, securing a spot for the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.[11] At the Olympics, she finished in ninth place in the semifinals of the combined event and did not move on to finals.[12]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup

More information Discipline ...
Discipline[13] 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021 2022 2023
Lead 42 55 46 23 19 26 14
Bouldering 5 3 2 4 1 15 5 2 2
Speed 43 30 9
Combined 5 8 3 4 6
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Climbing World Championships

Youth[14]

More information Discipline, 2015 Juniors ...
Discipline 2015
Juniors
2016
Juniors
Bouldering 2 4
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Adult[14]

More information Discipline ...
Discipline 2014 2016 2018 2019 2023
Lead 16 26 8
Bouldering 15 2 5 5 24
Speed 25 25
Combined 5 5 7
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World Cup podiums

Bouldering

More information Season, Gold ...
Season[14] Gold Silver Bronze Total
201411
201511
2016235
2017145
2018167
202111
2022123
202311
Total4101024
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Speed

More information Season, Gold ...
Season[14] Gold Silver Bronze Total
202111
Total11
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Notable ascents

On September 15, 2021, Nonaka redpointed Mr. Hyde 8c+ (5.14c) in Céüse, France.[15]

References

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